Thursday, 20 May 2010
Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay, Final Day - 20 miles
I did it! I did it! I did it!. That's all that keeps going round in my head!
I feel so proud of myself! For doing something that I have wanted to do for so long, for overcoming the challenges, and there were some! And for doing something that Nobody can take away from me!
The day started early - too early - I didn't sleep a wink properly in that mausoleum!. It really was the creepiest place on earth. It was a 17th Century farm house, and furnished like it too! there were three clocks going. One sounded like the tortuous dripping tap. One chimed every hour and the other a fast irritating tick. Not to mention the creepy dolls she had on display and the portraits, you know the ones. The eyes follow you everywhere. They should have paid me to stay there!
Anyway I was sure glad to leave! So I walked down through the village, very mixed emotions. Glad that I had nearly done, but sad that this would be the end too!
First stop was Beggars Bridge, where a poor beggar built it to impress the father of his true love! A lovely walk then through a forest trail, through the lovely village of Egton Bridge, then on to Grosmont.
The weather was glorious. Very hot - became much hotter as the day went on too I can tell you!
Stopped at Grosmont to see the steam trains, and had a wander along the station. Was like stepping back in time.
I chose to walk alone today, cos I wanted to savour each minute. I didn't want to walk with anyone and miss anything, which usually happens when you are chatting.
Left the station and walked a short while, but what a climb was round the corner!!
The climb up to Sleights Moor was one of the steepest roads I have ever come across! I am sure the policeman in his car must have thought I was having a cardiac arrest. It felt like it. I had the hot sun on me trying to muster up the energy to climb this hill, on pavement too. Climbed it I did tho and walked across the moor.
Entering Heartbeat (you know the popular TV show) territory here. You can see where most of the filming has been done! Actually saw Whitby for the first time too and a first glimpse of the sea!
Turned off after a while and cut down into a little village called LittleBeck, which led on to one of the nicest forest walks of the journey. Some climbing to do, but lots of interesting things to see. There is the hermitage, a boulder hollowed out to make a small cave. Then walk on further and you come to Falling Foss a 30m waterfall. Very nice. I stopped and had lunch there.Selwyn the hopeless map reader was here, but I let him get ahead of me - not geriatric sitting today!
After that and a further stroll through the forest you climb out on to the Greystone Hills. A bit of bleak moorland, and quite boggy in places.
This goes on for nearly two hours, and in the hot sun is quite hard.
Once through tho you start meeting civilisation, as you come in to Low Hawsker then High Hawsker before reaching the end stretch. Through a caravan site on to the cliff path for the long run in. This seems endless, you are tired and hot and want to finish and it is the end of another long day. Both days 20 miles each, so muscles are straining a bit by now. I am sure someone added an extra mile in at the end!
Made it tho and finally Robin Hoods Bay comes into sight! The buildings and the cove are a sight to behold!
The walk down the very steep road to the sea is full of all sorts of emotions. You can see the finishing line - but do you want it to end?
I came into the bay at about four ish, some of the long legs arrived much earlier, and yes it was a tearful arrival, much cheering an congratulating of each other. The toe dipping ceremony of what seems like ages ago and the throwing of the boulder into the sea! I am surprised we aren't tipping up with all the stones that get thrown into the East! Guess what? Selwyn came in an hour later - yep - he had got lost again. He followed some local people up the wrong path!!!!
My daughter and Lola and hubby was there to meet me, although Lola did prefer to play in the sand and couldn't understand what the fuss was about.
A few pics later and I left them briefly to go back to the Wainwright's Bar for a well deserved celebratory drink and a fond farewell to a lot of friends.
Phone numbers and emails have been exchanged. Let's hope we keep in touch.
A few hugs and tears from quite a few of us.
Am I glad I did it? yes
Would I do it again - yes, I think I would. Perhaps in 3 or 4 years time.
Would I recommend it - yes, but do train up.
Am I mad? Yes! - But you have always known that about me anyway.
What next? - suggestions please. I have definitely got the long hiking bug!
192 miles over 12 days + 10 or more extra miles walking to and from lodgings to pubs
15 pubs visited. Don't know how many pints I drank. Blame the weather!
High peaks climbed and descended - some serious stuff here.
Lots of wow factors on climbing and seeing the views!
Counted millions of sheep, but didn't help me sleep!
Not counting how many calories were consumed. I have never felt so hungry!
Lot of new friends and acquaintances made.
Lots of swear words used on climbing.
Oh and read 3 books too!
Am I happy? You Bet!
Wednesday, 19 May 2010
Gt Broughton to Glaisdale, Day 11, 19 miles
Pen ultimate day. Gosh, where has the days gone. Good early start. Long walk ahead over the moors. Started by climbing, supposed to be the last climb of the journey, but someone said a couple more tomorrow, will see. Climbed up 1350 feet. Can do them a bit quicker now, must be getting fit!
Once up top (Yorkshire speak) I walked over Carr Ridge on to Urra Moor, leading up to the former Rosedale Ironstone railway line. Makes a good path, but it goes on for what seems like forever. After an hour of moor walking it apparently changes to Farndale Moor then eventually High Blakely Moor. Who decides where a moor ends and the next one begins? And how do they know where?
Saw some fantastic views, some grouse, lots of nesting birds and yes, more sheep!
And it's a good job Kathy wasn't looking for Heathcliffe on this stretch, she'd be there still! Now if it was Mr Darcy I would help her ( sorry wrong story, different county). Sorry back to days walk, I do tend to go in a daydream imagining Colin Firth as Mr Darcy! swoon!!!
The halfway stop came in sight. The remote Lion Inn at Blakey. 4th highest Inn in Britain. Not very nice outside but inside it's very quaint, and very popular with tourists. I was a good girl, didn't have a pint, just a large tonic water. It has been a very humid kind of day, no hot sun breaking through, but enough to make you cautious. (no,not like me normally!)
From there I walked over Blakey Ridge onwards to Glaisdale High Moor, stopping at a stumpy white landmark called Fat Betty. Ok, in the photo a friend took of me there, you will have to spot the difference! Which is me and which is Betty!
Tradition has it that you leave a sweet and exchange it for one left by previous walker. Which I did. I just won't be eating mine. Don't tell her will you?
Another mile or so further on you come to a section of the moor called Great Fry Up Lane. What a name. But the views overlooking Great Fryup Dale are breathtaking. You are supposed to catch your first glimpse of the sea from here, but it had misty look, and we couldn't make it out. Will see it tomorrow tho.
Another hour to walk to get off the moors, and it was the worst part of the stretch. There had recently been fires, and the land is so dry ( no rain here now for a few weeks) which made it very dusty and dirty. My legs looked like I had been down the pit at the end of it!
Finally Glaisdale came into sight. Nice little village. They certainly knew we had arrived. (I walked with 6 other folk today and we have had a ball)! First stop was a little butchers' that had home made pork pies in the window, so we all had to have one. We are well and truly starving! We have used some energies over these last few days! After we had shocked poor Glaisdale, we seperated to our separate B & B's for the night, arranging to meet at the only pub and food place for a few miles.
Arrived at my farm. The lady was very nice, cup of tea to greet me. Lovely farm, but sorry not for me. It's very very old, and all antique. Feels creepy, the house creaks endlessly. There is also a grandfather clock, and a rather loud clock on the landing outside my room, and if that is still ticking in the morning , then it will be a miracle!!!
Walked a mile to the pub (not an alcoholic honestly!) and met with friends. We were also joined by John and Julie, from Holmfirth who I have walked with a few times and Selwyn, the 72 yr old who keeps getting lost!
Think the pub wondered what had hit them. We decided as it was our last night together we would celebrate. So we have shared a few drinks, and a very good meal. (I didnt drink that much, honest!). There was a table with four ladies, we guessed the local Womens' Institute. They weren't impressed with us at all! If looks could kill then none of us would be finishing the walk! Their tuts' outdid our laughter!
Anyway, we abandoned early. Last 20 miles tomorrow, early start. We have agreed to try and keep together for the last day, will see. We are all tired today.
Here I am now, all ready in bed, updating you all. But I think I may be sleeping with the light on................ bump! what was that?
Tuesday, 18 May 2010
Ingleby Cross to Gt Broughton, Day 10 - 13 miles
Firstly, Happy Birthday to my grandson Keelan, who is 2yrs old today and a silent farewell to a good friend Norma.
I am now into the third and final National Park - The Yorkshire Moors.
The day was bright and sunny and promised to be strenuous!!! They can say that again!
A walk through the village up onto the first of many climbs. Took an hour to climb the first meandering path through the forest - think they put the trees there so you couldn't see the top, halfway I could have stopped to look at Mount Grace Priory, but declined. I sort of knew what was in store - or so I thought!!!
After walking through Arncliffe Wood, joining the Cleveland Walk Trail, I opened out on to Scarth Wood Moor. Just glad it didn't rain on this one, cos it's pretty bleak even with the sun out. After about 20 mins came to a very steep descent, along a pretty woodland trail and out on to Live Moor. That was another fair climb 1600 feet.
The path dropped slightly to reveal Carlton Moor (how many moors do they want for heavens sake?). Another steep climb up this one too, 1500 feet, then a harsh descent. But the views, I have got to say are spectacular. I may drive up here one day and do this walk again. It is amazing!
Once you descend Carlton Moor, which has it's own gliding club - that shows how high we were - you come across Lord Stones Cafe. This is very nice. It's half underground and tucked away amongst a small plantation. Very hard to find apparently. Well worth the visit.
It is so popular, you queue at the door for your well deserved cup of tea. (And a buttered scone).
Was quite nice view to! Lol. The Humberside police were having a chill day. About ten of them sat drinking tea, all in nice black tee-shirts and trousers. Could cope with that, wondered if they were into mountain rescue for the day? Would be worth tripping if they were. Also if they were there, the burglars must have been having a field day too! lol
Another steep climb now, 1400 feet, serves me right for eating that scone. (Needs working off I suppose). This is now Cringle Moor. Again, well worth the climb - once again the views are amazing. You can see across Teeside, the faint and now distant memory of the hills of Swaledale and a glimpse of the walk for tomorrow.
Another steep descent followed by guess what? Yep. Another steep climb 1500 feet! This time up to the Wain Stones. Last climb of the day.
Chatted to a couple of teachers at the top who had a dozen kids with them showing them how to climb over the rocks. Some playground. Bet those kids sleep tonight! Sat resting in the still very hot sun, and was joined by a lecturer from Teeside, also by three long distant pals of a few days ago, the ones with the spaniels. He is a lecturer in law, and it turns out the friends are CID! Had to think did I say anything incriminating to them over the days! Spend good half hour sat there, dogs sleeping in the shade for a while and us chatting. Been told I would make a good defective (think I got the right spelling - one of the guys spelt it for me! lol)
Not far to go now to the finish, and I had been told in a phone call earlier in the day that my landlady would come and pick me up from the finish, as my bed for the night is 2 miles off the beaten track. But Ian, the Lecturer (funny breed lecturers - why wasn't he working? do students teach themselves?) offered to run me. Said he knew the landlady anyway and he only lived down the road. So walk was over for the day. Lots of climbing, lots of resting in the sun, lots of chatting and drinking. But was a very good day. Tomorrow is the walk to the fourth highest inn in Britain. Now that is worth climbing too......... will tell you what the beer is like tomorrow!
Monday, 17 May 2010
Richmond to Ingleby Cross, Day 9, 22 miles
This is a big one after two days of 'rest'. Got up nice and early, after a restless night, and set off at 7.20am. Walked through Richmond, by the castle and climbed up to a little village called Colburn. Very small. Walked through a nice little forest path, until I came to a sign that said 'Warning, you are now entering a military area!' Ok. good job I wasn't wearing green, or could be mistaken for one of them, or camouflaged! Hoped it wasn't target shooting day! Well, didn't see anybody, no fit soldiers. Was a tad disappointed! lol
Now reached another landmark. Across the A1. Good job the path went under the bridge, or I would probably still be there trying to cross it!
From there walked into country fields, through Bolton-on-swale - thought I was nearly home at first glance! Feels like I have walked that far!
I could see the Cleveland Hills from Danby Wiske, where I decided to have lunch, but I had to cross half the Vale of Mobray first.
Most normal walkers stop at Danby for the night, after all it is 14 miles walked, but no not me! I had to go another 8 miles! And most of the walk to Danby is on road, which can be a killer for poor tired feet.
Still arrived and sat on the village green, with large tonic water, eating my packed lunch. Sun was hot, and to be honest, I could have sat there all day, but wasn't to be.
Ok. Had to move before legs went on strike, plod on. And that's what I did. Had a lot of roads, and farmland to get through. To be honest, I found this stretch very monotonous, mainly cos I couldn't see much. Think my little legs are getting shorter! Oh to be a little taller! All I could see was hedgerows and fields. And they went on forever. All fields look the same when you're my height! lol
The sun was very hot, so stopped for little breaks - even took my boots off for a while. Glad no-one was around, and I'm surprised they didn't walk off on their own, after the work they have been through! Knew I should have packed odour eaters!
The Hills were getting nearer. I think by then I had gone on auto with walking. Very hard day, very hot day and very tiring. One more farm to cut through before I played at trying to cross the very fast and dangerous A19. Just about had enough energy to run, which you had to do, or you would be squished! Imagine walking so far, then that happening! You'd never get your certificate then! lol.
Arrived at my den for the night, a lovely farm, with gardens to die for (no I am not crossing the A19 again!). Only trouble was it was away from the pub! But the nice man who works there offered to run me down. So quick shower, change of clothes and got my lift.
As I got out of his car, I was greeted by quite a few long separated friends, mainly cos at this part of the walk people take shorter days, stay at different towns or can't get B & B's close by, so you lose touch. You do get the odd wave now and again from a distant walker, but without my glasses I could be waving at the queen for all I know!
Most of us are shattered today. The heat for one and the road pounding for another, so some of us left the pub early. I had to walk back to the farm, another half mile....... may need to shorten my trousers when I get home!
Sunday, 16 May 2010
Reeth to Richmond, Day 8, 11 miles
Have I been lucky with the weather, forecast said rain. Not seen a drop!
Set off early, which really wasn't my intention, but landlady at that B & B wasn't the friendliest in the world! Still can amble along nicely today. Not a long walk. Very similar to yesterday. Left Reeth and walked for just over half an hour and saw the signs for Marrick Priory. You can see them but cant go to them. Why sell something you can't see?
Walked up 375 steps - named Nuns' Steps! Apparently named after the nuns constructed them as a walk way to the abbey. Think they were constructed for me, being the good girl that I am! (and if you believe that.......)lol.
From there, came the village of Marske. Very nice, very small but worth passing through. Ignored the signs for tea and cakes and plodded on. Was being good today.
On to Applegarth Scar. A brief climb then a stroll through Whitecliffe wood before seeing the first sights of Richmond in the distance.
Arrived around 1.00pm and was surprised to come across civilisation. Shops! what are they? A quick call to my lodgings to see if I could dump my rucksack - I am sure the pebble I picked up from St Bees has grown into a boulder along the way!
Come any time I was told, so made my way through this little town, quick shower then I was off. Not missing this lovely sunshine.
Strolled through the town, a lovely quaint market square, cobble stones and all. Sat outside a cafe and had a lovely coffee, a quick look in a couple of shops, picked up a new book to read. Told you I was going to make the most of this sun. Had a walk round the castle and found just the spot. Sat between the castle wall and the river I literally sat for 2 hours, yes me sitting! Sorry no photo to prove it though! I just chilled and read my book. Will finish it later. Got a lovely tan coming along. Who needs Turkey? Son will understand that!
Thought I had better move about six o'clock,'cos nearly everyone had gone. So engrossed in my book, anyone would think I was on holiday! As if!
Tea time. Let me see, pub meal, pub fare or pub grub?
Guess what won! lol. Had to try the yorkshire pudding seeing as I am here, as well as the customary pint too! What a hard life I am living at the moment....... will pay for it tomorrow tho! 22 miles!
Saturday, 15 May 2010
Keld to Reeth, Day 7 - 11 miles.
Forgot to mention Keld was the official halfway point of the C2C walk. I can honestly say I am still enjoying myself, even the pain is soon forgotten after climbing.
This is another short walk day today, so I am going to be indulgent and take the gentle low level walk along the banks of the River Swale. There is supposed to be an abundance of wildlife, herons, otters deer, if you are lucky. I didn't see any. But the river is at it's lowest for ages.
The high route meant another strenuous couple of climbs, and I think I can manage to miss them today. The highlight on the high route is a walk through lead mines and some ancient ruins. I will let the others tell me about it, I prefer the pretty route today.
I was all set up, sun nice and warm, lovely scenery, I-pod on, when I met this man stood at a signpost. He admitted he was lost, he was also on the coast to coast. He is also 72 yrs old and very agile. He had actually got the wrong map in front of him, so he asked could he walk with me. End of little indulgence, but Selwyn was very good company. This walk just meanders and follows the River into Reeth. We passed through a few little villages, with about 6/7 houses in each one. Met the Morris Dancers in the first village, who offered me a lift, they were on there way to Reeth too. I was very good and declined, me cheat? never!
It was just a lovely walk. Arrived in Reeth about half two, where my daughter and her family came up for the day. We all had a lovely tea together. Reeth is a lovely place, some nice little shops and eating places, all built round a village green.
The Morris Dancers were already there, but they did say hello again.
After saying goodbye to my family, and exchanging dirty laundry for some nice fresh clothes, I called into one of the pubs. Would be very rude to ignore some of my new found friends. And I am getting used to the customary pint at the end of each walk!
Kirkby Stephen to Keld, Day 6 - 13 miles
Felt tired this morning, but only cos of a stupid resident waking me up at 00.50 am. Had to go down and say a few choice words. She was all apologetic and very drunk. I wasn't impressed! Good start to the day, but it wasn't a long day, so I wasn't going to let her spoil it for me.
Set off just after eight and ambled down the main street in Kirkby Stephen. Think is the only place I am no too impressed with. But you can't have everything.
I had two choices on this walk, to aim high for The Nine Standards (no-one knows why they are there and what for, so if anyone can enlighten me please)or to bypass it. The moors up there are extremely boggy and quite hazardous to cross, and walkers have been known to fall in up to their waist! Or, do I take the easy route and go on the alternative. Black clouds were looming ahead too. It took me a while to climb, a total of 2000 feet today, but the higher I went the more the clouds moved on, so what the heck, will go to these Standards. The sun actually came out for the rest of the day. I have been blessed with the weather this last week.
Walking pole to the ready - testing stick to see how deep my feet will go - I caught my first glimpse of them. And hiked up yet another fair climb. But that should be the last highest climb, I will be over the Pennines after that.
Think I led most of the way, was everyone having a lie in? Think they were starting later after the long haul of previous, but you know me, can't stay in bed longer than I have to!
Reached the top with not much mud, but then again it has been one of the driest weeks here for a while, and had a good look at these odd pile of stones.
Three people arrived who I met on a previous day, don't know their names, but we got on ok. Exchanged cameras and took each other's photos. Have to prove I have actually been walking and not holed up in an obscure hotel somewhere just reading a book!
They carried on before me, dogs off bounding. Next came the hard bit, walking through the boggy ground and negotiating where to put my feet. If a grown man can sink to his waist, then I had no chance with my little legs!!
Took my time and finally made it through. Then I had a bit of a downhill stretch, but it was quite pleasant. You had to cross a stream zig-zagging over it as it meandered its way down.
Then my reward was in sight. The farm at Ravenseat is well known for catering walkers. The lady comes and serves you with hot drinks and warm home made scones. I had by then caught up to my three friends of earlier in the day.
They confessed to walking a little slower in case I vanished into the bog! Thought that was very nice of them. We sat for a good half hour in the warm sunshine filling our tummies with our well deserved treat.
Wasn't much further to walk though after that, so what was the rush. I am supposed to be on holiday, so what the heck. Got the rest of the day to myself after anyway cos there is nowhere to go. An isolated village, and my stay for the night was in a remote farm. We had all lost mobile signal earlier in the day too and would have none till next day.
Carried on and walked a bit quicker - guilt over the indulgence!
I arrived in Keld around 2.30 and made for the phone box. Had forgotten what to do in one of those things - that's what mobile are for isn't it - how do they manage without them here?
Phone the farm and Gwenda said she would come and collect me. She arrived in less than no time and took me back to the farm. They breed pedigree Swaledale sheep.
Later she went to collect the other four people who would be staying the night, Dai and Peggy - guess where they were from, and Doug and Richard from Winchester.
Dai and Peggy are doing the coast to coast but east to west, so we exchanged a few tips. The other two guys are doing some of the Pennine Way.
Gwenda made us a lovely meal, and after we all sat chatting for the evening in fron of a lovely coal fire. We just chilled and relaxed. It was a lovely evening.
We were all getting drowsy by ten so off to bed we all went. Guess what?
I slept for 7 - yes 7 hours! The bed was the comfiest I have ever been in, and the place was the quietest ever. Will definitely go back there. They get my best rating of my accommodation chart.
Set off just after eight and ambled down the main street in Kirkby Stephen. Think is the only place I am no too impressed with. But you can't have everything.
I had two choices on this walk, to aim high for The Nine Standards (no-one knows why they are there and what for, so if anyone can enlighten me please)or to bypass it. The moors up there are extremely boggy and quite hazardous to cross, and walkers have been known to fall in up to their waist! Or, do I take the easy route and go on the alternative. Black clouds were looming ahead too. It took me a while to climb, a total of 2000 feet today, but the higher I went the more the clouds moved on, so what the heck, will go to these Standards. The sun actually came out for the rest of the day. I have been blessed with the weather this last week.
Walking pole to the ready - testing stick to see how deep my feet will go - I caught my first glimpse of them. And hiked up yet another fair climb. But that should be the last highest climb, I will be over the Pennines after that.
Think I led most of the way, was everyone having a lie in? Think they were starting later after the long haul of previous, but you know me, can't stay in bed longer than I have to!
Reached the top with not much mud, but then again it has been one of the driest weeks here for a while, and had a good look at these odd pile of stones.
Three people arrived who I met on a previous day, don't know their names, but we got on ok. Exchanged cameras and took each other's photos. Have to prove I have actually been walking and not holed up in an obscure hotel somewhere just reading a book!
They carried on before me, dogs off bounding. Next came the hard bit, walking through the boggy ground and negotiating where to put my feet. If a grown man can sink to his waist, then I had no chance with my little legs!!
Took my time and finally made it through. Then I had a bit of a downhill stretch, but it was quite pleasant. You had to cross a stream zig-zagging over it as it meandered its way down.
Then my reward was in sight. The farm at Ravenseat is well known for catering walkers. The lady comes and serves you with hot drinks and warm home made scones. I had by then caught up to my three friends of earlier in the day.
They confessed to walking a little slower in case I vanished into the bog! Thought that was very nice of them. We sat for a good half hour in the warm sunshine filling our tummies with our well deserved treat.
Wasn't much further to walk though after that, so what was the rush. I am supposed to be on holiday, so what the heck. Got the rest of the day to myself after anyway cos there is nowhere to go. An isolated village, and my stay for the night was in a remote farm. We had all lost mobile signal earlier in the day too and would have none till next day.
Carried on and walked a bit quicker - guilt over the indulgence!
I arrived in Keld around 2.30 and made for the phone box. Had forgotten what to do in one of those things - that's what mobile are for isn't it - how do they manage without them here?
Phone the farm and Gwenda said she would come and collect me. She arrived in less than no time and took me back to the farm. They breed pedigree Swaledale sheep.
Later she went to collect the other four people who would be staying the night, Dai and Peggy - guess where they were from, and Doug and Richard from Winchester.
Dai and Peggy are doing the coast to coast but east to west, so we exchanged a few tips. The other two guys are doing some of the Pennine Way.
Gwenda made us a lovely meal, and after we all sat chatting for the evening in fron of a lovely coal fire. We just chilled and relaxed. It was a lovely evening.
We were all getting drowsy by ten so off to bed we all went. Guess what?
I slept for 7 - yes 7 hours! The bed was the comfiest I have ever been in, and the place was the quietest ever. Will definitely go back there. They get my best rating of my accommodation chart.
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