Sunday, 16 May 2010

Reeth to Richmond, Day 8, 11 miles




Have I been lucky with the weather, forecast said rain. Not seen a drop!
Set off early, which really wasn't my intention, but landlady at that B & B wasn't the friendliest in the world! Still can amble along nicely today. Not a long walk. Very similar to yesterday. Left Reeth and walked for just over half an hour and saw the signs for Marrick Priory. You can see them but cant go to them. Why sell something you can't see?
Walked up 375 steps - named Nuns' Steps! Apparently named after the nuns constructed them as a walk way to the abbey. Think they were constructed for me, being the good girl that I am! (and if you believe that.......)lol.
From there, came the village of Marske. Very nice, very small but worth passing through. Ignored the signs for tea and cakes and plodded on. Was being good today.
On to Applegarth Scar. A brief climb then a stroll through Whitecliffe wood before seeing the first sights of Richmond in the distance.
Arrived around 1.00pm and was surprised to come across civilisation. Shops! what are they? A quick call to my lodgings to see if I could dump my rucksack - I am sure the pebble I picked up from St Bees has grown into a boulder along the way!
Come any time I was told, so made my way through this little town, quick shower then I was off. Not missing this lovely sunshine.
Strolled through the town, a lovely quaint market square, cobble stones and all. Sat outside a cafe and had a lovely coffee, a quick look in a couple of shops, picked up a new book to read. Told you I was going to make the most of this sun. Had a walk round the castle and found just the spot. Sat between the castle wall and the river I literally sat for 2 hours, yes me sitting! Sorry no photo to prove it though! I just chilled and read my book. Will finish it later. Got a lovely tan coming along. Who needs Turkey? Son will understand that!
Thought I had better move about six o'clock,'cos nearly everyone had gone. So engrossed in my book, anyone would think I was on holiday! As if!
Tea time. Let me see, pub meal, pub fare or pub grub?
Guess what won! lol. Had to try the yorkshire pudding seeing as I am here, as well as the customary pint too! What a hard life I am living at the moment....... will pay for it tomorrow tho! 22 miles!

Saturday, 15 May 2010

Keld to Reeth, Day 7 - 11 miles.





Forgot to mention Keld was the official halfway point of the C2C walk. I can honestly say I am still enjoying myself, even the pain is soon forgotten after climbing.
This is another short walk day today, so I am going to be indulgent and take the gentle low level walk along the banks of the River Swale. There is supposed to be an abundance of wildlife, herons, otters deer, if you are lucky. I didn't see any. But the river is at it's lowest for ages.
The high route meant another strenuous couple of climbs, and I think I can manage to miss them today. The highlight on the high route is a walk through lead mines and some ancient ruins. I will let the others tell me about it, I prefer the pretty route today.
I was all set up, sun nice and warm, lovely scenery, I-pod on, when I met this man stood at a signpost. He admitted he was lost, he was also on the coast to coast. He is also 72 yrs old and very agile. He had actually got the wrong map in front of him, so he asked could he walk with me. End of little indulgence, but Selwyn was very good company. This walk just meanders and follows the River into Reeth. We passed through a few little villages, with about 6/7 houses in each one. Met the Morris Dancers in the first village, who offered me a lift, they were on there way to Reeth too. I was very good and declined, me cheat? never!
It was just a lovely walk. Arrived in Reeth about half two, where my daughter and her family came up for the day. We all had a lovely tea together. Reeth is a lovely place, some nice little shops and eating places, all built round a village green.
The Morris Dancers were already there, but they did say hello again.
After saying goodbye to my family, and exchanging dirty laundry for some nice fresh clothes, I called into one of the pubs. Would be very rude to ignore some of my new found friends. And I am getting used to the customary pint at the end of each walk!

Kirkby Stephen to Keld, Day 6 - 13 miles

Felt tired this morning, but only cos of a stupid resident waking me up at 00.50 am. Had to go down and say a few choice words. She was all apologetic and very drunk. I wasn't impressed! Good start to the day, but it wasn't a long day, so I wasn't going to let her spoil it for me.
Set off just after eight and ambled down the main street in Kirkby Stephen. Think is the only place I am no too impressed with. But you can't have everything.
I had two choices on this walk, to aim high for The Nine Standards (no-one knows why they are there and what for, so if anyone can enlighten me please)or to bypass it. The moors up there are extremely boggy and quite hazardous to cross, and walkers have been known to fall in up to their waist! Or, do I take the easy route and go on the alternative. Black clouds were looming ahead too. It took me a while to climb, a total of 2000 feet today, but the higher I went the more the clouds moved on, so what the heck, will go to these Standards. The sun actually came out for the rest of the day. I have been blessed with the weather this last week.
Walking pole to the ready - testing stick to see how deep my feet will go - I caught my first glimpse of them. And hiked up yet another fair climb. But that should be the last highest climb, I will be over the Pennines after that.
Think I led most of the way, was everyone having a lie in? Think they were starting later after the long haul of previous, but you know me, can't stay in bed longer than I have to!
Reached the top with not much mud, but then again it has been one of the driest weeks here for a while, and had a good look at these odd pile of stones.
Three people arrived who I met on a previous day, don't know their names, but we got on ok. Exchanged cameras and took each other's photos. Have to prove I have actually been walking and not holed up in an obscure hotel somewhere just reading a book!
They carried on before me, dogs off bounding. Next came the hard bit, walking through the boggy ground and negotiating where to put my feet. If a grown man can sink to his waist, then I had no chance with my little legs!!
Took my time and finally made it through. Then I had a bit of a downhill stretch, but it was quite pleasant. You had to cross a stream zig-zagging over it as it meandered its way down.
Then my reward was in sight. The farm at Ravenseat is well known for catering walkers. The lady comes and serves you with hot drinks and warm home made scones. I had by then caught up to my three friends of earlier in the day.
They confessed to walking a little slower in case I vanished into the bog! Thought that was very nice of them. We sat for a good half hour in the warm sunshine filling our tummies with our well deserved treat.
Wasn't much further to walk though after that, so what was the rush. I am supposed to be on holiday, so what the heck. Got the rest of the day to myself after anyway cos there is nowhere to go. An isolated village, and my stay for the night was in a remote farm. We had all lost mobile signal earlier in the day too and would have none till next day.
Carried on and walked a bit quicker - guilt over the indulgence!
I arrived in Keld around 2.30 and made for the phone box. Had forgotten what to do in one of those things - that's what mobile are for isn't it - how do they manage without them here?
Phone the farm and Gwenda said she would come and collect me. She arrived in less than no time and took me back to the farm. They breed pedigree Swaledale sheep.
Later she went to collect the other four people who would be staying the night, Dai and Peggy - guess where they were from, and Doug and Richard from Winchester.
Dai and Peggy are doing the coast to coast but east to west, so we exchanged a few tips. The other two guys are doing some of the Pennine Way.
Gwenda made us a lovely meal, and after we all sat chatting for the evening in fron of a lovely coal fire. We just chilled and relaxed. It was a lovely evening.
We were all getting drowsy by ten so off to bed we all went. Guess what?
I slept for 7 - yes 7 hours! The bed was the comfiest I have ever been in, and the place was the quietest ever. Will definitely go back there. They get my best rating of my accommodation chart.

Thursday, 13 May 2010

Shap to Kirkby Stephen, Day 5. 21 miles





I can't believe I have completed 83 miles already. Started at 8am again this morning. This walking hasn't helped me sleep any longer than normal. Was wide awake at 4.45!
The walk started across the road, across the railway line, which officially marked the one third stage. Try telling my legs and feet that!
Over across the M6 motorway and a lovely pleasant walk past Oddendale Village, before hitting Crosby Ravensworth Fell. The book warns us to watch out for adders - well I can assure you I didn't look for any, and didn't want to find any! Wasn't playing hide and seek with them things!
They can stay where they are. Away from me!
That walk took the best part of two hours before I reached any civilisation. Then the decision to bypass Orton Village or go through it. The temptation was the chocolate factory. According to the guide book not to be missed!
Well I actually took the slimmers route and bypassed it. How is that for being good? Not like me to be good! As a few of you may verify! And you can keep your comments!
From there I walked over Orton Scar. Another bleak and desolate Place. Had to cut through a few farms here, and ok, I got lost. One field looks the same as the other when you walk through them!
Only sent me ten mins or so off track, so wasn't too bad!
Then onto Tarn Moor. Boring, but decided to break it up with a pleasant lunch break at Sunbiggin Tarn. It is supposed to be teeming with bird life, but seeing as I didn't have my glasses with me, there was no point looking for them!
I sat and basked in a little sheltered spot in the lovely sunshine. The wind was rather chilly when walking. But warm enough for shorts. Well you know how warm I get!
Looked at map and decided to cut across the Moor on a different path than official route. So glad I did. It cut an hour off the tedious road you are supposed to follow. So ok, slapped hands I have cheated!
Walking along boring moorland with nothing to see but sheep would send you to sleep, so I hope I am forgiven.
At last the scenery changed once I hit Severals village. This is an Archaeological site, but I don't see the appeal in looking at the odd stone in the ground. Hope I haven't offended anyone on that remark. Know what some of you oldies are like!
Descended into a valley, which was lovely and warm, out of that wind, and came across Swarmby Bridge. A lovely little secluded spot, with gentle stream. So guess what. I indulged myself. Boots off, legs stretched - as far as my little legs stretch anyway, and sat there for 20 mins in the warmth and just chilled. Yes, I can do that sometimes! Not often enough so I have been told!
Climbed out of the valley and up onto Smardale Fell. Very grassy, with you guessed it, more sheep! Think they keep saying 'Maaaad!' or something like that! May have heard wrong! lol
That was a long stretch too. Over an hour before I got my first glimpse of Kirby Stephen.
Arrived there just after 4.30pm. Not bad really after 21 miles and a couple of stops.
After quick shower and change off out for tea. Had to be the other side of the village, but what the heck, but apparently you have to have the customary fish and chips from the famous Coast to Coast chippy.
So glad I did, and I think I deserved them! They were delicious. Would be worth doing the walk all over again for another portion! Only kidding! For now anyway. You never know. Watch this space. I am enjoying this challenge, even the boring bits, sheep and all.
May see who I can talk into walking with me next time, tho there is nothing better than walking alone, at peace with the world, listening to the sound of the birds and country life or classical music on your I-pod. If only I could win the lottery.........
Apologies for tomorrows blog. There is no signal for mobiles, so will not be able to update laptop or text anyone. Off to Keld tomorrow, 13 miles and crossing the Pennines. I have a choice of three routes tomorrow. Will let you know which one I took.

Wednesday, 12 May 2010

Patterdale to Shap Day 4 - 16 miles






Started the day nice and early again. Glad I did too. Was long and arduous. The walk through Patterdale was very pleasant and chatted to a few people off on their hikes. Some just doing the local hikes and hills, some were to join me on the stretch for the day.
Walked up past Wordworth cottage then on upwards - and do I mean upwards - again!!!
Knew this was coming and it is the last part of the Lakes, so cant complain can I?
1750m - nothing. Who was I kidding? No, I knew it had to be done, but boy were my leg musces screaming at me as I started the ascent. Took me longer than previous, but I made the first stretch up to Angle Tarn. Very nice and was quite warm, even stripped off to shorts and T-shirt! Carried on climbing very slowly and was a lovely route to take, the scenery spectacular. (Photos may have to be added when I arrive home)
Now everyone says how good a gps is out on the hills - they lie!! Carried on on the route according to gps, climbed very steep hill and reached the top, only to find I had climbed The Knott - just for the sheer hell of it, cos I had to come down the other side. I wasn't the only one either! Got back on track to Kidsty Pike and slowly (don't forget my poor little legs) with gritted teeth made it to the top. Was well worth it.
The views. What more can I say. It's like being on top of the world. The descent down was quite hair-raising. Loose shale that went from under your feet without warning. Made it down in one piece tho and reached Haweswater just after half one. Long morning and still 9 miles to do! Had a nice sit down with, boots off, for a good rest. The sun was hot then and was nice to chill. After climbing the Pike the weather changed to freezing cold wind, and how quick can I dress? So the warmth was appreciated. Next came the 2 hour walk along side Haweswater. Pleasant enough, but long.
Came across a place call Burnbanks. A little village of about ten houses, and one phone box. What no pub? A lager would have been nice!
Then all of a sudden - rain. Rain? I didn't order any. Was a heavy spell too, so out came the waterproofs - suppose I had to use them really after all I had carried them round for four days. Rain lasted about half an hour, which wasn't too bad. Only 5 miles to go - through farmlands. Nice change to see sheep!!! lol
The sun came out to encourage me on, so off came the wet gear. Off again. Was getting tired by this time, but on I had to go.
Finally saw my destination Shap Abbey. This is the point where I cross The village couldn't be far behind it.
The guide book said 20 mins walk from village. All lies! Took me much longer. I do only have little legs and the were very tired. Took me 45 mins, mainly cos it was uphill on tarmac. That is a killer after so long. And guess what? My hotel had to be one of the last buildings in Shap. There is a bonus to that tho, on looking at tomorrows map, the footpath is directly opposite the hotel. So ok. All is forgiven on that one.
Had a lovely meal in the King's Arms pub and a pint! Don't think the drink even touched the sides today. I was joined by a lovely couple who have overtaken me on every walk so far - well they are both over six foot and I take two steps to their one (did I say I had little legs?).
Early night tonight - 21 miles tomorrow, but at least it is flat! Shap to Kirby Stephen, cross the M6, by bridge obviously!

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Rosthwaite to Patterdale via Grasmere Day 3. 18 miles.




Too late to change any plans now. So we decided to be up bright and early, only 18 miles to go.
8 am saw us on the way, pleasant stroll for first mile - then we saw the climb! Not another one. Ok! But we knew we had to climb, we were in denial. The first one was a mere 2000 feet, took us over an hour and half, strained every muscle we had used the day before. But we did it no problem. But of course this climb had a steep descent into Grasmere. I thought I was doing well till a lady, about my age run (yes run) with all the gear and backpack) passed me. She sure was in a hurry. Won't be using her as a walking buddy. We did that section in four hours. That was good. The lady probably did in one!
Next - ok. We found out we were mad and should have done what the others had done! we had to do the same again. 1950 feet this time. We were tired by then, but had no choice but to go on. We had lunch at Grisedale Tarn, which sits just under Helvellyn. Was very nice. The weather in the morning was hot and sunny, but changed on the descent into Patterdale. Fleeces back on, with gloves too! That was a very steep descent too. I am so glad we haven't had any rain. It would have been very hard!
Met a few people walking the opposite way and chatted briefly to some of them. Once own to a level, the walk was long and of course our legs were aching. Was worth the walk tho. The B & B is right on the edge of Lake Ullswater. My room over looks the lake. Will be bed early tonight. Big climb tomorrow up Kidsty Pike then onto Shap - if my legs work in the morning!

Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite Day 2





Legs groaned for a few mins this morning, but soon got going again. Set off bright and early with a lady called Louise from Coventry. Walked the first mile to to the lake and was met by a very cold stiff breeze. Coats on!! The walk around the lake was ok till we came to a part where the path had disappeared. We had to climb round rocks (wasn't pleasant - fall into water if fell). Thankfully we both supported one another. Then was the long walk to the end of the lake. Had a bit of banter with some of the other walkers. The next part is described as the most boring part, and yes it is! Just one long trek through plantations. Nothing to look at and very tedious. Seemed to last forever, which it did - all 90 mins of it.
We then hit on Black Sail Youth Hostel, where you could make a lovely cup of tea, or coffee, have a piece of cake too. All left by volunteers in exchange for a small donation. Gladly. The tea was most welcome. It was to put you on after looking at what was to come!
If I thought yesterdays climb was big - well I was wrong! And there was no other way out of the valley! Anyone got a helicopter? I will pay!!! Loft Beck will never be forgotten. It is hard, it is one of the steepest climbs on the walk! It is difficult. Everyone struggled, cursed. Surprising how many stops you need too on this! Twenty steps then stop! Even the regular climbers of great hills curse this one. It took over an hour to climb, but boy the views where fantastic once done. And I felt so elated! I had done it! (Like I said, photos will be added as soon as I can).
The walk down was good, we passed through Honister Slate Mine, well actually no, we had a well deserved 2nd cup of tea, before the long walk to our next place of stay.
Rosthwaite.
Me, and a couple of other guys on the walk stayed at this bed and breakfast to be met by a sergeant major of a landlady! Boots off!! dont come in till I tell you. Breakfast 7.30 sharp! And what do you want for packed lunch tomorrow. Said in those exact words!! The place was in bad need of updating, with only the one plug socket per room, no tv, no tea or coffee and one shared bathroom - but then again we are in a place of limited B & B's. A stroll down to the pub later for tea and a chat about the next route. Mr and Tim - my walker friend said we were walking to Patterdale to be met with a few intqkes of breath, gasps and and few comments like 'are you mad?'
Apparently, everyone else had decided to cut the walk into two and stop at Grasmere, and walk to Patterdale the day after. If only I had known......